Go with the flow at Finland’s premier music festival with headliners like Blur and Suede

WALKING barefoot in the forest is not where I’d picture myself on a Monday morning.

While the rest of the world gritted its collective teeth and prepared to get back to it, I was somewhere on the outskirts of Tampere — Finland’s third city. Only you wouldn’t know it.

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As my guide talked me through the surroundings I was encouraged to reach out and eat blueberries, and feel the pine needles underfoot.

There is an almost spiritual link between the Finns and nature — which my all too brief trip to the Nordic nation hammered home.

There are, I’m told, 37 edible berries in Finland — and a whole lot more besides. Even on the outskirts of the kitsch capital, Helsinki, we were encouraged to taste roseships, wild oregano, yarrow and an array of nature’s bounty.

Back home the wild fruits in our woods and forests are most often left for the birds.

Finnish culture seems to have a mainline to what came before. The land is seen less as a commodity and more of a source of life and it is something we could all learn from.

My visit began with a cultural assault.

Every summer, thousands of natives make a pilgrimage back to Helsinki for the annual Flow Festival.

Based to the east of the city beneath the towers of a huge power station, the industrial backdrop hosts a meat-free sustainable event. Think TRNSMT but with fewer drunks and less burgers.

This year’s event was headlined by Suede, Wizkid, Lorde and Blur

On the night I was there, I got to see Suede reel out their best Bowie impressions with a blast through their best of, and a handful of latter day singles thrown in for good measure.

Watching Brett Anderson rattle through his Rebel, Rebel- infused repertoire beneath the enormous cooling towers felt apt, but it wasn’t all nostalgic. Kaytranada’s DJ set brought the first day of the event to a pounding close, adding a little touch of magic as the sun set.

Helsinki as a capital is, for the most part, compact. Its status as a harbour city means a plentiful supply of fresh fish which dominates menus and there are around 330 islands in the archipelago — many of which were once humble homes to fishermen but now stand as a reminder of a distant age.

A boat tour, followed by a hearty lunch, is the best way to get to grips with the city which lies on the edge of the Baltic. While the skyline is dominated by the city hall, there is plenty for the snap happy to see.

The city library has a staircase which captivates the aesthetically focussed and the cobble streets and tramlines make for fantastic people watching opportunities.

What’s more, the myth that Scandinavia and its Nordic neighbours will cost you a kidney to visit is increasingly inaccurate. I stayed at the stylish Hotel Marski, and believe me the prices here at around £155 a night, were MUCH cheaper than the equivalent hotel in good old blighty.

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A pint of beer will set you back anywhere from four euro to 10 euro, while a coffee runs to about three. Prices for the basics are not hugely different to stepping through the doors of one of Scotland’s swankier establishments.

I was treated to a four-course feast at Wellamo, a restaurant sitting on Helsinki harbour and offering a mix of fresh fruit and vegetables, along with the most perfect perch.

Finnish flavours focus on what can be found at home with a mix of herbs which seem to give dishes a savoury twist you might not be find back in the UK.

And considering the quality of ingredients, the 62 euro price tag is something of a steal.

While savoury options lead to some unique flavours outside of a typical Scottish palette, there are some truly bizarre options when it comes to sweets.

Liquorice is not for everyone. Combine it with a little salt, or perhaps a touch of mint and you’ve a unique experience that might be best reserved to catch unsuspecting colleagues or young relatives, off guard.

In my humble opinion, the best way to experience Finland is by venturing a little further afield than the capital.

The country is dappled with forests and lakes, which makes for stunning scenery for any long journeys, as any Scots are sure to know.

Tampere is a swift and seamless train ride from the capital and my hotel, the Original Sokos Hotel Ilves overlooked the river and stood out in the night sky thanks to it’s funky purple lighting.
While it is the third city, the wider region is the second most populous.

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Among its attractions are the world’s only dedicated Moomin museum — a cute and sure fire hit with youngsters — the site of Lenin and Stalin’s first meeting in a humble worker’s hall and an entire region named after pioneering Scots industrialist, James Finlayson. There really is a bit of Scotland everywhere!

With forests and lakes comes the perfect environment for the sauna. Originally used as a means of cleansing, the sauna is treated as nigh-on sacred for many.

So much so there is a ‘sauna healer’ — think of a homeopath who forages for their remedies and then sings as they administer them.
The role is not seen so often in cities but at Tahmelan Huvila Sauna, on the edge of the city, they have a genuine pro.

Sauna healer Siiri Kosk gathers foliage to make up ‘whisks’ — a collection of branches which act as a brush to stimulate the skin and impart their natural qualities to help revive you.

And she even sings traditional acapella sauna songs — which is an experience like no other. The sauna is best followed by leaping into a lake.

And once you catch your breath, swimming in the late summer sun is an amazing way to get you in the mood for a hearty dinner.

The idea of a sauna is a far cry from the dry steam room you find at the local gym and in fact there is an entire culture around this pursuit.

As ever, there is a range, from the deeply traditional sauna healers — to the Instagram-friendly rooftop sauna club Periscope which sees revellers enjoy a citywide view with their eye-watering steam.

You might have always fancied Finland but been put off by the prices but it is good value for money.

The sights, sounds and smells of the country are in a world of their own. The connection between Finns and the natural world around them is something we could all learn from.

As a first step why not kick off your shoes and socks and go for a wander in a forest bare foot, then hot foot it to Finland and try the real deal.

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