Benicassim review: Spain’s legendary music festival may have lost its former glory – but it still offers a magical three days

ONCE upon a time, a weekend at Benicassim festival was the stuff of legend.

I myself have heard many a tale – via my party-animal mother who has long viewed this small corner on the Valencian coast as close enough to heaven on Earth – of wild adventures had in the glorious sunshine, stories of wildfires, thunderstorms, flash floods, evacuations, band break-ups, hours spent raving in the silent disco tent, sunburns, vicious hangovers, collapsed tents, and, of course, magical music, smiles and memories to last a lifetime.

In celebration of my birthday, it was now my turn to continue the family tradition – but would I leave feeling underwhelmed?

Some would certainly think so, with social media awash with disappointment after the line-up for the festival was released as many longed with nostalgia for a bygone era.

Previous iterations of the festival, which used to span four days, have been headlined by the likes of Oasis, The Killers, Arctic Monkeys, Leonard Cohen, The Prodigy, Bob Dylan, Ed Sheeran and David Guetta.

But Covid-19 took its toll on the organisers’ coffers, and now the pickings are a little slimmer than they once were.

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This year’s roster failed to attract the normal array of international stars for which the festival became famous, with headliners including the Black Eyed Peas, Jess Glynne, Sam Ryder, Yungblud, Miles Kane and The Vaccines alongside a host of reasonably well-known Spanish acts.

Action kicked off late on Thursday afternoon with The Libertines strumming away for an hour in the blistering sun.

Frontman Pete Doherty was once famed in the British press for his wild drug-fuelled and booze-drenched benders – he has since calmed down, replacing those addictions with a never-ending appetite for food, but still holds a wonderful aura and raspy voice which ensured the first hour of the festival, albeit sweltering, were enjoyable.

Later in the evening, the main stage, sponsored by official beer suppliers Heineken, played host to Jess Glynne, whose boundless energy sparked the crowd into life.

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The Black Eyed Peas were next and, as arguably the most well-known name on the poster with a host of hits to fall back on, the crowd swelled to its largest of the weekend.

However, their set was beset by a string of technical issues which caused their start time – originally at 3am – was pushed back to 4am.

Once they got going, and they started playing the singles everyone knows and loves, the restless crowd finally began to enjoy themselves.

But you couldn’t help feeling, on the walk home as the rising sun brought colour to the sky, that for a headliner they were disappointing.

Milky Chance, The Vaccines and Sam Ryder were the highlights of Friday’s offering.

The latter two were particularly impressive, with Ryder, a former Eurovision entrant for the UK who would have won if it weren’t for a Ukraine sympathy vote, the best vocalist and showman of the weekend.

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Even my step-dad, who has yet to contract festival fever, raised a smile as he leapt around the stage like a gazelle and sang like a songbird.

Saturday – coincidentally my birthday – was short on international stars after I decided to eschew the over-the-top rock of Royal Blood.

As a big Alex Turner fan, I went to see Miles Kane, one half of The Last Shadow Puppets, the Arctic Monkeys’ frontman’s side project.

The scouser certainly appeared to be having fun on stage, culminating his set by wearing a personalised cape that looked like my nan’s curtains whilst Frank Sinatra’s My Way played for a little too long for comfort in the background.

If Kane was as good as he thinks he is, it might have been a more enjoyable hour.

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The rest of the day, given the shortage of mouthwatering headliners, was spelt meandering around the minor stages.

The Beach Club was one highlight, resembling a mini rave as DJs pleased the crowd with timeless dance hits.

There are other areas where the organisers deserve plaudits.

The payment system for bars and food stalls used a bracelet which could be loaded up at any time on your phone.

It may sound unnecessarily complicated, but in reality it makes for a far more efficient purchasing process than using physical cards or cash.

The result was short queues for any refreshments which, given the heat, was welcome.

It should be said that many regular attendees did not agree – one guest claimed on social media that ‘Benicassim died in 2017’, whilst another said ‘it is time to find another Spanish festival to attend’.

The criticism was so intense that Benicassim’s official Instagram page turned off comments on posts advertising tickets for the 2025 edition of the festival.

Many stalwart locals admitted that, for better or worse, Benicassim International Festival is not quite the extravaganza it once was.

They have a point.

It may not be the stuff of legend anymore – but with three days of Spanish sunshine and music in a beautiful corner of the world for a reasonable price, what’s not to love?

After all, I could think of worse ways to spend a weekend.